Almost every car owner has come across a crankcase gas system. There are enough reasons for “breathering” – the most common: the quality of the oil or its not quite correct selection (the oil often starts to steam, burn out and it does not fade without a trace). The general condition of the internal combustion engine – a slightly slid compression gives a large number of crankcase gases that need to be removed and they also displace the oily mist. The state of the intake tract during tuning – in some modes, excessive vacuum is created in the collector and the internal combustion engine literally sucks itself out.
The breather device often looks the same from different manufacturers: two fittings emerge from under the oil separator in the valve cover. The high-speed breather has a larger cross-section and is connected to the intake tract up to the throttle valve or to the turbine in a turbocharged internal combustion engine (in these areas, the vacuum is small, but constant, and increases with increasing speed). The second breather has a very small cross-section (literally 1-2 mm in diameter and often enters the intake manifold through a channel in the throttle body – this is an idle breather) and is designed for a small amount of crankcase gases and a rather large idle vacuum.
Well, what do we have in fact: the internal combustion engine “breathes”, throws oil at the inlet, deposits on the throttle valve, the idle valve gets dirty, gets into the combustion chamber, burns out, leaving carbon deposits. Diseases and problems begin to progress
You can, of course, fight the reasons, but putting the engine in order is an overhead, and not many are ready for a major overhaul of the internal combustion engine or try dozens of different oils on their own skin.
People will fight the symptoms, (fortunately, it’s cheap) because oil collectors, they are oil catchers, are quite inexpensive, and their installation is simple: remove the standard high-speed breather hose, measure the diameters of the fittings (in order to select the hose) and put an oil catch can in the cut of the line.
Now about oil catch cants.
There are many models on the market: from very budgetary to expensive professional ones.
The simplest are aluminum round can. They are collapsible and very easy to modify. For example, digest the fittings for the desired diameter or shove a steel wool inside, plus bring the tube to the bottom of the can – the oil begins to condense better.
Further there are non-separable nickel-plated oil catch cans. There is no opportunity to modify them anymore, so it is better to put them in cooler places so that the oil vapors condense on the wall. The volume of these cans is 0.75-1-2 liters. 2 liters is better for large engines and diesel engines.
Separately, you can stop at a 2l oil catch can with reverse drainage and ventilation – it needs a good competent installation, there will be hoses on AN10 fittings, there will be oil drain into the pan, and then you can forget about this part of the engine compartment – maintenance of such an oil catch can will not be necessary. It is also installed on dry sump systems.
Note that you should not place the hoses and the oil catch cans themselves in too cold places or outside the engine compartment. It is cold in Russia and many have already faced the problem of freezing of oil sump hoses in cold weather. The consequences will be sad – the turbine will start throwing oil. Little pleasant. But with proper installation, there will be only advantages from this device. I’ve wrote an article about best catch cans for 392 Hemi
Best regards, Liam Brooks